Himalayan preparation in Shieldaig!


Return client Ruth is heading for Mera Peak this month with #JaggedGlobe and wanted to practice her techniques on fixed ropes.  This was an interesting assignment for me and I looked forward to the challenge of providing this here in Shieldaig.

Ruth has already made a traverse of Liathach with me in summer and did a #SYHA winter skills course with Dunc last year.  This was a great opportunity for her to take her existing skills and add to them in preparation for the Mera Peak trip.

Using the excellent PDF from #JaggedGlobe we started off using a jumar for safety on ascent, then safely making the transition to easier ground before moving onto a steep slab where Ruth showed great skills, determination and understanding.

In the afternoon we moved to the tiered crag behind Shieldaig Primary School to put it all together in ascent, traverse and descent with some unexpected surprises thrown in!  Under my instruction Ruth worked out a safe system to pass intermediate anchors as well as transfer from one fixed line to another in ascent and descent.

Finally we looked at what to do if a jumar or abseil device is dropped and a prussic, or Italian Hitch have to be used instead; as well as a short session on crevasse rescue.  My wife and I rescued a friend from a crevasse in the Alps some time ago.  We will both never forget how grateful we were for a half-day practice looking at a nice simple system and nailing it!

I wish Ruth all the best with her Jagged Globe,  Mera Peak expedition and look forward to hearing about it later on!

blog by Jim nineonesix-guiding


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